A
"vacuum leak" refers to a situation where air is entering an area where it shouldn't, causing a disruption in the proper functioning of a machine or system that relies on a vacuum or negative pressure.
Full definition
The car acted like it had a significant
vacuum leak in park or at a stop light especially when warm.
Those things are notorious for getting
vacuum leaks on them because the tops of the engines are all made out of plastic — including the intake system.
There are many other problems I would suspect
like vacuum leaks, fuel supply issues, and ignition issues all of which would be much cheaper to fix.
If the power booster is broken it could induce a very
large vacuum leak when you hit the breaks.
Does have a check engine light on but it comes up as
vacuum leak which is common on turbo cars.
After eliminating everything else I concluded that this is due to a
minor vacuum leak.
I'm learning
about vacuum leaks on engine intakes and I'm hearing this terminology of lean air fuel mixture.
At this stage we feel it necessary to repair the brake
line vacuum leak before proceeding with declaring this problem solved.
The problem sounds like you either have a
massive vacuum leak or a problem with the idle air control valve.
These engines had issues with
vacuum leaks at the throttle body and intake gaskets.
The rough idle may be due to the fuel injection system being dirty or having an engine
vacuum leak causing a lean condition.
The causes
include vacuum leaks and EGR system faults, a faulty idle air control (IAC) valve or circuit, faults in the fuel pump control circuit, defective...
It will be helpful to use a smoke machine in order to
find vacuum leaks in the EVAP control system.
If you don't do car repairs yourself, take it to a garage and mention the fault code (P0506) and your suspicion of the cause, a
potential vacuum leak.
Let's assume you have already checked for
small vacuum leaks in the rubber tubing on the intake manifold and replaced the PCV valve (if applicable)...
Also
vacuum leaks due to cracked perished hoses etc can lead to issues like this.
In - House Laboratory Testing Facility including accelerated product shelf life analysis and
vacuum leak testing of container / closure compatibility, to reduce your risk.
Other possible sources:
Vacuum Leak Other Ignition item (Plug Wires, Distributer, etc.) Really poor fuel Air Filter Blocked Exhaust Blockage I would start with the spark plugs.
There are times
when vacuum leaks are the cause of the P2422 trouble code and replacing EVAP components is not necessary.
You may need to have additional diagnosis done by a mechanic like one from YourMechanic to see if the ignition timing is correct and there is no
engine vacuum leaks in the intake or vacuum lines.
In the alternative you could hook up a vacuum source to the intake manifold with the car totally off and then do a totally safe and
sane vacuum leak test.
However, I had a CEL come on, due to a
tiny vacuum leak at the gas cap and I drove it for quite a while, over a year, with no ill effects.
It is not unusual for the vacuum actuated portion of the petcock to fail and the owner to clip and plug the vacuum line going to the intake boot to eliminate the
associated vacuum leak.
From the symptoms and the timing of it happening after the fuel neck repair, my first guess would be during the repair a fuel -
related vacuum leak of some sort was created, maybe a hose came loose during the repair, possibly at evap cannister or vapor purge valve.
Extensive amounts of time are used to detect
vacuum leaks without testing for proper operation of the EVAP leak detection pump.
It is important to determine whether cleaning the MAF sensor and
repairing vacuum leaks will resolve the P2281 diagnostic trouble code before replacing the MAF sensor.