Sentences with phrase «vacuum leaks»

The OEMTOOLS Universal Cooling System Filler purges those problematic airlocks checks for vacuum leaks and then allows the technician to refill the system quickly and easily.

Each knob offers 2 oring seals to ensure no oil or vacuum leaks.

Here are few examples of intake or vacuum leaks:

- vacuum leaks.

Some vacuum leaks can also be originated in the intake manifold.

Examples of vacuum leaks include: leaking intake manifold gasket, broken PCV valve or PCV hose, disconnected vacuum line, cracked vacuum line, ripped intake snorkel - faulty fuel injector - damaged engine computer (PCM)- low fuel pressure - leaking head gasket - low compression in the affected cylinder - valves that are out of adjustment - bad mass airflow sensor (random misfire).

If you get the engine started, but it stalls, there could be a problem with the throttle position sensor, the idle air control valve, the EGR system, vacuum leaks, and so forth.

Rough idle can be caused by dirty fuel injectors, incorrect idle speed, exhaust restrictions, vacuum leaks, incorrectly installed or damaged spark plugs, a defective or clogged fuel pump or fuel filter, failing electrical components such as the ignition control module,...

The causes include vacuum leaks and EGR system faults, a faulty idle air control (IAC) valve or circuit, faults in the fuel pump control circuit, defective...

Check the brake booster for any vacuum leaks.

Loss of power on acceleration can be due to plugged fuel injectors, faulty oxygen sensors, fuel pump and / or filter, vacuum leaks including that caused by a faulty EGR system, ignition system malfunctions, bad valve timing if the timing belt or...

The lack of response to the accelerator pedal has quite a few potential causes that would have to be sorted out in a diagnostic including, just as a few examples, plugged fuel injectors, faulty oxygen sensors, fuel pump and / or filter, vacuum leaks including that caused by a faulty EGR system, ignition system malfunctions, bad valve timing if the timing belt or chain is worn or skipped, blocked exhaust (e.g., catalytic converter fails or becomes clogged), a faulty airflow sensor or throttle position sensor, and so forth.

Other possible causes of a high idle include vacuum leaks, a malfunctioning throttle (throttle...

I usually check the engine for vacuum leaks first.

Clears all trouble codes and completes a test drive to see if the P2281 diagnostic trouble code comes back (if so, it will be necessary to check for vacuum leaks)

The poor operation that you are describing could be due to a bad tank of gasoline, dirty fuel injectors, incorrect idle speed, exhaust restrictions, vacuum leaks, incorrectly installed or damaged spark plugs, a defective or clogged fuel pump or fuel...

With the car running and while applying the brake, checks for vacuum leaks in the vacuum lines, hoses, air inlet tubes, and fuel injector

Those things are notorious for getting vacuum leaks on them because the tops of the engines are all made out of plastic — including the intake system.

Rough idle and excessive shaking of the engine could be due to a bad tank of gasoline, dirty fuel injectors, incorrect idle speed, exhaust restrictions, vacuum leaks, incorrectly installed or damaged spark plugs, a defective or clogged fuel pump or fuel filter, failing electrical components such as the ignition control module, plug wires, coils, and spark plugs, a defective airflow sensor, dirty oxygen sensors and other causes.

It is also important to check for vacuum leaks and carbon buildup in the throttle body air passages.

Common causes of the P0506 diagnostic trouble code are vacuum leaks and dirty throttle body air passages.

Inspects the throttle body for vacuum leaks and high carbon build up.

You may need to have additional diagnosis done by a mechanic like one from YourMechanic to see if the ignition timing is correct and there is no engine vacuum leaks in the intake or vacuum lines.

Stalling at idle could be due to a faulty mass airflow sensor, faulty camshaft or crankshaft position sensors, worn spark plugs, wires or defective ignition coil (s), inadequate fuel delivery or pressure (clogged fuel filter, injectors, faulty fuel pump or pump circuit), contaminated or old gasoline, defective throttle position sensor, faulty idle air control valve, leaks in the EGR system, intake vacuum leaks, and so forth.

Extensive amounts of time are used to detect vacuum leaks without testing for proper operation of the EVAP leak detection pump.

Vacuum leaks are not discovered and repaired before replacing EVAP components.

A weak idle is most often caused by vacuum leaks in the intake system.

These engines had issues with vacuum leaks at the throttle body and intake gaskets.

You should first check for any vacuum leaks that would cause the engine to idle higher than normal.

Other possible causes of a high idle include vacuum leaks, a malfunctioning throttle and, rarely, a PCM / ECM malfunction.

The induction should be inspected and checked for vacuum leaks.

If everything is fine then I do a smoke test of the intake system to check for vacuum leaks.

Check the engine for any vacuum leaks.

Have someone check for vacuum leaks...

Check the intake for any vacuum leaks and also the brake booster.

The intake system is known to have vacuum leaks and also coolant leaking into the intake.

The reading was very steady and didn't change after warming up, so it didn't appear to have any vacuum leaks as I read that sometimes a leak can come from the intake manifold gaskets.

Then I'm almost certain it's going to be the FPR and you most likely wont find any other vacuum leaks.

I have checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner sprayed a mist over all intakes but no high idle or low idle just stayed the same idle.

Recheck for vacuum leaks.

I checked for vacuum leaks.

If you're confident that there are no vacuum leaks, MAF's can give lower - than - expected measurements over time due to fouling of the sensor.

All say there is no vacuum leaks, power to the pump, everything reads fine..

Vacuum leaks are quite painful to track down, but many have found that a mechanics stethoscope with an open hose at the end can be helpful in tracking them down.

Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

Having just replaced the PVC valve on a 2013 TSI and still getting a P2177 code I started looking for vacuum leaks and would like to know if it is normal for a good PCV valve to expel a small amount of air through the vent hole?

Let's assume you have already checked for small vacuum leaks in the rubber tubing on the intake manifold and replaced the PCV valve (if applicable)...

This is useful for diagnosing MIL issues that can come and go like vacuum leaks, bad connections and misfires.

Remember you'll need new gaskets to do this or your new engine will have plenty of issues (like vacuum leaks in the intake which will allow unmetered air into the intake system, and exhaust leaks which will allow air into the exhaust track allowing for really crappy gas mileage.).

Makes a lot of sense, I heard a lean condition can cause it to heat up more too, and the bike was running hotter than usual at idle so this would make sense, gonna go ahead and try to fix the airbox fittings or buy a new one, and start going through the trouble shooting to see if I can find any vacuum leaks, ill keep you updated on my findings!