Not exact matches
Things I loved: ~ didn't drown my daughter - she can eat at her pace ~ even though there are 3 parts to the nipple, it's still very easy to take apart and clean ~
due to
vacuum pressure being needed, milk does not
leak out ~ my daughter switches seamlessly between this bottle and my breast then back again ~ uses the same bottles that Medela pumps use I was worried about trying this bottles at first
due to the price being high and seeing reviews about other babies not taking the bottle.
I am told it is
due to a
vacuum leak!
It doesn't seem to be running rough but I'm not sure if the engine only have 1 new plug and coil is throwing off the balance and making the code for the catalytic converter show up or if its
due to the catalytic converter going bad or if its the intake manifold having a
vacuum leak.
The VW had less than 50 miles transmission stopped working
due to coffee spill, at 50k Thermostat stuck closed, then Coil pack, cracked coolant tank, abs module, 3 faulty engine coolant sensor, complete lower and upper suspension,
vacuum hose
leak, starter, bad ground cable, driver window fell off the rail, AC stopped working, heater core clogged, hood cable broke, moon roof slides open on it's own, motor / transmission mounts, front snub mounts, 3 cracked oil pan for being to close to ground, driver window switch, rear light housing, + usual maintenance.
After eliminating everything else I concluded that this is
due to a minor
vacuum leak.
The temperature differences can mean the rubber slightly expands or contracts
due to temperature, and thus can cause the problem to either be present (major
vacuum leak) or to not be present (minor
vacuum leak).
However, I had a CEL come on,
due to a tiny
vacuum leak at the gas cap and I drove it for quite a while, over a year, with no ill effects.
If you're confident that there are no
vacuum leaks, MAF's can give lower - than - expected measurements over time
due to fouling of the sensor.
I would assume this means you have lost your intake manifold
vacuum due to a
vacuum leak.
If the vehicle stalls upon touching the brake pedal, that could be
due to a
vacuum leak in the brake booster system but only of course if the vehicle has power brakes.
A
vacuum leak can cause an engine to idle high
due to the excessive amount of air flow into the fuel injection system.
If this issue it only occurring at idle, then it is either
due to a
vacuum leak in the engine or more commonly a failing idle air control valve.
Stalling at idle could be
due to a faulty mass airflow sensor, faulty camshaft or crankshaft position sensors, worn spark plugs, wires or defective ignition coil (s), inadequate fuel delivery or pressure (clogged fuel filter, injectors, faulty fuel pump or pump circuit), contaminated or old gasoline, defective throttle position sensor, faulty idle air control valve,
leaks in the EGR system, intake
vacuum leaks, and so forth.
Rough idle and excessive shaking of the engine could be
due to a bad tank of gasoline, dirty fuel injectors, incorrect idle speed, exhaust restrictions,
vacuum leaks, incorrectly installed or damaged spark plugs, a defective or clogged fuel pump or fuel filter, failing electrical components such as the ignition control module, plug wires, coils, and spark plugs, a defective airflow sensor, dirty oxygen sensors and other causes.
The poor operation that you are describing could be
due to a bad tank of gasoline, dirty fuel injectors, incorrect idle speed, exhaust restrictions,
vacuum leaks, incorrectly installed or damaged spark plugs, a defective or clogged fuel pump or fuel...
Loss of power on acceleration can be
due to plugged fuel injectors, faulty oxygen sensors, fuel pump and / or filter,
vacuum leaks including that caused by a faulty EGR system, ignition system malfunctions, bad valve timing if the timing belt or...