Sentences with phrase «with multimeter»

Ironically, after computing these detailed power measurements, I simply measured the input current with a multimeter, multiplied by 115 volts, and got almost exactly the same results for vampire power.

I suspected the arduino so I used a 5Volt external Power Supply but again Nothing with a multimeter.

- So before I continue to do other diagnoses I tested the the battery with a multimeter for certainty and I'm only getting around 10 volts when I'm suppose to be getting 12.6 volts

It might be worth checking the brake switch with a multimeter.

Any ideas of how I can do tests (probably with my multimeter) to find where the problem is?

= I decided to test for parasitic battery drain with a multimeter by disconnected the negative cable and I'm getting.56 ~.80 ~ amps so nothing is really draining the battery.

Ok, so I removed the brake light fuse, disconnected the brake light switch connector and took a length of lamp cord to test continuity with my multimeter.

A few days later I fitted a new socket on the back of the car, tested it with a multimeter and everything was showing 12 volts when switched on.

So just to be sure it wasn't a wiring or ecu problem so I decided to test the lambda sensor directly with a multimeter.

Some vehicles have refrigerant pressure sensors which you can backprobe with a multimeter to see what the pressure is together with a lookup table.

I'll try checking the socket / assembly with a multimeter, and see where that gets me.

I was messing around with electrical loads on my 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L today and noticed that the voltage I was reading at the battery with my multimeter, didn't match the voltage the ECU was report via my scan tool.

There is +12 V at the starter (tested with multimeter, and since the engine turns over when shorting (welding!)

Normally I'd remove a fuse and test the two connections with a multimeter set to measure Ohms / resistance, but removing this is a non-trivial task - not only is the bolt holding it in place incredibly stiff, it's also holding the wiring together and I don't like the risk of re-assembling the wiring incorrectly or losing one of the many small parts like washers held with this bolt.

Tested connections with multimeter, both good.

After a few minutes without doing anything but scratch my head I tested it again with the multimeter and found power had been restored.

I also tested with multimeter.

For the 50 amp, I can't tell by looking if it's good or not, is there a way to test it with a multimeter without removing it?

Have you checked the new switch - i.e. disconnect the wiring loom from the switch, and check with a multimeter that the switch is open - circuit normally, and closed - circuit when it is in reverse.

With my multimeter, the battery tested at 12.6 V while off, and between 13V and 14V while on.

Check your 30 amp fuse for continuity with a multimeter.

Be sure to disconnect from the rectifier and not just try and pierce the wires with the multimeter end.

You can disconnect them from the rectifier and test them with a multimeter.

As the other reply says - check with a multimeter first to work out which is which!

Take some voltage readings with a multimeter.

I've checked all the fuses (even ones unrelated to the problem), and tested them all with a multimeter even when they look fine.

There's other possibilities, if you are handy with a multimeter you could track this down yourself, otherwise let your mechanic do it.

You can test their functionality with a multimeter, there's how - tos on the web for that.

You could pull a door panel and get busy with a multimeter when one is misbehaving.

However, when I tested with a multimeter at the battery (accessories on), the readings seemed perfectly reasonable.

With a multimeter, check the resistance of the sensor cold, and then observe it as the car warms up.

IIRC you can check this with a multimeter, but it's best to check with a scope.

Either the increased concentration of free calcium ions or their increased mobility (likely both, the researchers speculate) results in a decrease in the electrical resistance throughout the material, which can be detected with a multimeter connected to electrodes embedded in the film.

Finding and fixing issues in automobiles, home wiring, appliances, and electronics works best with a multimeter.

You can do a ton of automotive problem - solving with this multimeter, including testing ignition and fuel delivery, plus starting and charging, and locating wiring issues and busted sensors.

Not exact matches

If you're doing extensive electrical work, whether it's in your home or in your vehicle, a more advanced multimeter with more features would probably be better suited to your needs.

Note that this multimeter lacks a frequency testing option, which can come in handy when you're dealing with some types of sensors and signals, such as speed sensors and fuel injector control signals.

One thing to consider is that this multimeter doesn't come with capacitance testing capability, so if you want to identify issues in capacitance - start motors or other applications, you may prefer a different multimeter.

The multimeter can also measure continuity and diode testing with beeping alerts, and has functions like data hold and maximum value hold.

The multimeter comes with test leads and a thermocouple that will come in handy if you ever need to test your car's heating and cooling systems.

This digital multimeter comes with the basic features you need for troubleshooting around the house and in the garage.

It's a great automotive multimeter with an incredibly low price to boot!

The Tacklife Multimeter comes with tons of great features to help you troubleshoot electrical issues!

This digital multimeter from Thsinde comes with test leads and alligator clips, which are a must - have for making testing hands - free and fast.

The Fluke 115 is a part of the Fluke family of awesome multimeters and has a ton of solid features for automotive troubleshooting as well as working with other electronics and around the house.

Besides the Fluke 88 Series V multimeter, you also get a carrying case filled with silicone test leads, alligator clips, test probes, an inductive RPM pick - up probe, a temperature probe, automotive backprobe pins, an insulation piercing probe, and a ToolPak magnetic meter hanging kit.

The Neoteck 8233D PRO Pocket Multimeter comes with test leads, banana plug to alligator clip cables, and a 9V battery to get you started right away.

tested the injector plug with light bulb and a multimeter during the ignition and startup but there is no 12 V on them (the black wire has no voltage in reference to plus or minus side of battery and the red wire has 1.2 V in reference to ground)

A couple of things in this case make a difference: only a multimeter with high impedance (to get the voltage I saw you'd need 100k — 1M in the circuit; that's more like a broken wire closed by dirty water); multiple earths showed the same reading, including those which also serve working circuits.

Maybe voltage drop the starting system if you have a multimeter with a min max feature.