Also, sometimes there are gaps or cracks or screw holes / nail holes, etc, that have to be
filled with wood filler.
I also filled in the lines of the
drawers with wood filler, not sure if that was a mistake yet: / did you put a protective clear coat on it?
Also we are leaning towards filling the gaps between the
boards with wood filler to make clean up easier, any tips or suggestions as far as that goes?
I would fill in the nail
holes with wood filler, sand those spots, and paint the molding the same color as the cabinet.
After the butcher block was attached to the cabinets, we needed to fill in any gaps in the
seams with wood filler.
For the areas where the veneer was completely off, I filled in the
space with wood filler then sanded it down.
I did fill in the holes from the old hardware though
with wood filler before I primed as the new hardware had a different placement.
I also lightly sanded first to remove the gleam on any clearcoat, and filled in any holes or
damage with wood filler first.
I tried to repair wood
steps with wood filler once and it just crumbled away under the paint because it wouldnt stick to the step.
After I cleaned and filled holes and any damaged
areas with wood filler, I used Annie Sloan chalk paint in Old White using this step by step painting process.
To fix the «seam» edging along our pine board, we covered all of the
sides with wood filler, then sanded it down to give it a more smooth finish.
If you stain or paint first, then build, and fill areas as
needed with wood filler, then you have to sand the wood filler smooth, removing all that work, then re - stain / paint in those areas that have wood filler and were sanded.
I filled in the the large scratches and dings on
top with wood filler, but the natural imperfections and knots in the wood remain, and well, it's wood and I don't want to hide that.
Finally, I filled in some
spaces with wood filler, painted over them (& touched up a few bleeds in the painters tape area).
The only prep I did for this makeover was to give the table and chairs a good cleaning with a strong mixture of vinegar and hot water, and I filled in some deep
scratches with wood filler.
From just the picture I would even them out, fill the
gaps with wood filler and use a gel stain that is closest to matching.You can pound the staples in and just use wood filler to cover the hammer marks if you use a darker gel stain.
I had already removed the hardware,
patched with wood filler, tested a couple of paint swatches on the bottom drawer, and started sanding.
I started to repair
it with wood filler, but then seeing just how loose it was, decided to try peeling it off instead.
I filled every single little hole
with wood filler and sanded once it was dry.
BTW, the old rack is going from forest green to a bronzy brown with previous «pecan» warped wood top to natural wood top with «peg holes» (read: turned over top, filled old screw holes
with wood filler, then used dark furniture crayon on top, and LOTS of polyurethane of course!)
After I filled all of the nail holes
with wood filler and sanded it smooth, I used my Home Right paint sprayer to paint everything white.
I would have to patch one on the cabinet doors (the lower one)
with wood filler and then patch both holes in the drawers and make a new hole in the center for the knobs.
Fill all cracks, knots, and nail holes
with wood filler.
Now it's time to fill holes
with wood filler, caulk and paint!
a dining room sideboard on the side of the road last weekend — it's going to get a full makeover, but the groves are ugly — now I will be filling
them with wood filler, just genius!
Countersink the nails, fill the holes
with wood filler (or spackle), and paint the color of your choice!
Fill screwhead holes
with wood filler.
There were a few parts of the desk that had unsightly gaps where the wood had shrunken through the years so I filled
those with wood filler and sanded when dry.