Hi There, It sounds like you may have a dirty or faulty
idle air control valve or potentially a bad fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump.
If this issue it only occurring at idle, then it is either due to a vacuum leak in the engine or more commonly a
failing idle air control valve.
When the engine RPM drops below the normal range of 750 - 800 RPM, this often times will cause the engine to stall indicating a dirty or
faulty idle air control valve.
The vehicle initially threw a DTC P0507 («
Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected») within a few minutes of starting but after disconnecting the battery (see troubleshooting below) I haven't been able to reproduce it.
Sometimes problems
of idle air control valve or MAF sensor may happen, and as for the rest, it is perfect.
There are many causes of hard starting but illustrative ones are a faulty engine coolant temperature switch (sensor), worn spark plugs, inadequate fuel delivery or pressure (e.g., clogged fuel filter), dirty fuel injectors, contaminated or old gasoline,
malfunctioning idle air control valve, poor engine compression, and so forth.
You should have the computer tested to get codes for the stalling and
if idle air control valve codes are received then replace idle control valve.
I finally replaced it (Ford calls it the IAC valve, stands
for idle air control valve) and it's been running like a champ ever since.
Carbon build - up,
defective idle air control valve, broken ducting, dirty air filter, air leaks, MAF or IAT or Engine coolant sensor, Ignition system component failure
Honda S2000's Modifications include: Dynosty Built 2.3 L Stroker F20 Honda S2000 Engine Full Race exhaust manifold with Dynosty piping and Front Mount Intercooler PTE Precision Turbo 6766 Ball Bearing Dynosty 3 ″ SS Tig Exhaust with Race Muffler Hypertune Intake Manifold, custom modified for Dual Fuel Rails and
Idle Air Control Injector Dynamics ID1300 Injectors x8 fed by Dual Walbro 485 Fuel Pumps Haltech Platinum S2000 Pro Plugin calibrated by Hal at Dynosty.
Includes all factory functions (ac, speedo, tacho etc) plus
aftermarket idle air control, 8x injector control, advanced boost by gear control and more.
EJ252 differs in intake system, throttle body and the placement
of idle air control valve and MAP sensor.
For the engine surging making the rpm's go up and down could be caused by a defective or
stuck idle air control valve (IAC).
They do not have any significant problems, except for the ones of
idle air control valve and MAF sensor, which happen from time to time.
Ningbo Winkay Auto Parts Co., Limited is specialized in producing and selling: ignition coil, air flow meter, oxygen sensor, EGR valves,
idle air control valve, spark plug wire set, fuel injectors, fuel pump, thermostat, crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, intake air pressure sensor, angular position sensor, throttle position sensor, ABS sensors, phase sensor, odometer sensors and so on.
Engine trouble that occurs only at low - speeds is likely to be
the Idle Air Control valve.
I suspect
your Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve.
Have you cleaned your throttle body and
idle air control valve?
Sounds like
the Idle Air Control Valve and the Intake Manifold must be removed and cleaned.
was
the idle air control valve cleaned?
My first to suspects are the IAC (
Idle Air Control) and the AC compressor.
The Idle Air Control Valve when removed will spill coolant it's located on the back side of the intake manifold and has a few 12 mm bolts holding it on.
Sounds to me like the IAC valve (
Idle Air Control Valve) needs to be replaced.
Jerking while stopping can be caused by
the Idle Air Control Valve.
Also, be sure to clean
the Idle Air Control (IAC) while you have everything exposed.
This is likely
the Idle Air Control Valve as has been suggested, or something in the engine isn't running perfectly, so we are talking about:
My guess is possibly that
the idle air control valve is not enjoying the cold weather.
Phrases with «idle air control»