- The hardwood guys came back yesterday to do the final
coat of poly on the wood, but used the wrong sheen (matte instead of high - gloss).
It took about three days — one to lay and stain — the second day in the morning we put on the
first coat of poly, a few hours later did the second coat and the third before bed.
I finished off the beautiful, time - worn character with a
couple coats of poly to seal and bring out the vibrancy.
Because we were leaving the pine trim as it was (plus a couple
of coats of poly acrylic) I did the same with the upper kitchen cabinets to keep the whole house looking cohesive.
Next, we are going to buff the floors, and then Cy will apply the third and
final coat of poly on the floors.
I do that sometimes on the top of a piece after having used
serval coats of poly top coat simply as a finish to give it a richer finish it works very well.
I would love to give them all a light sanding and
fresh coat of poly when we get to updating the door knobs.
After they are filled in, lightly sand until smooth and then stain it and then put several
coats of poly on it.
Commercial grade, food safe, glossy or matte depending on your tastes, durable as heck... and though it takes some know - how, probably not all that much more labor intensive than brushing on
several coats of poly.
I applied 3 coats of chalk paint on a test section, and when I applied my
first coat of poly and some of the paint is lifting and I can see the original color underneath.
I have a question... what does the buffing before the final
coat of poly do?
The flooring was existent to the house — red oak hardwood — the floors were refinished during the kitchen renovation and received a couple
of coats of poly.
I will say putting
a coat of poly on after has helped with the kick marks, and makes it easier to wipe down, since the chalk paint is more of a rough surface instead of a smooth finish I say GO FOR IT!
Do first
coat of poly on the counters, second coat on the cabinets and then second coat of poly on the main wood floor.
Two hours later, the table top was ready for a light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper and the second
coat of poly.
To finish, I added three
coats of poly sanding with 400 grit between coats 1 and 2, for a nice smooth finish.
This did not happen to me with a sample that had the dark wax over 1 coat of clear wax (which itself was over two
coats of poly), but I don't want a dark wax look for these chairs, so I am just wondering if I should be trying something different to get this white wax to stick.
I put on
a coat of poly, added clear glaze, wiped with dry rag followed by damp rag.
Then we used two
coats of poly to protect it.»
After a human error (sharpie) I had to refinish one part of my table and ended up putting
another coat of poly over the entire thing.
Do you sand the last «Ok, this thing is done»
coat of poly?
Sometimes... depending on the piece... I will also seal it with
a coat of poly or varathane after washing to give it some added freshness while sealing in some of it's «patina»
Installation is a bit of a bear, at least 5
coats of poly -(whatever you want) but looks incredible afterwards and keeps it up day after day.
A coat of Poly (My favorite Poly Used here on a Two Toned Side Table and here on a French Provincial Hutch).
(7) At least two
coats of poly is needed for all three, but the color surely does pop when the poly is applied.
They told me to paint with a flat or satin finish, wait 30 days, then wash with a TSP solution, which will help the poly to stick, then 2 — 3
coats of poly.
Step 10: Get out your polyurethane and yet another foam brush, and following manufacturers instructions do 3
coats of poly.
Apply
a coat of poly to all the edges and the top.
After two
coats of poly, I called it finished.